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aber auch zum Vergessen und Kämpfen
in dem am Strand geblättert und das mit Notizen vollgeschrieben wird
der über 50 der besten Surf-Destinationen weltweit vorstellt
2020 veranstaltete John seine erste Ausstellung außerhalb der USA in der Slope Gallery in Tokio
INTERVIEW: NOT FRIENDS
KOOK - What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller Thruster Fins aber auch zum Vergessen undWith grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceans beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year,